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Mount Humphreys, CA - 4/13/08 (1 viewing) (1) Guest
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TOPIC: Mount Humphreys, CA - 4/13/08
Brian Kalet (Admin)
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Gender: Male Location: Fort Collins, CO Birthdate: 1980-06-10
Mount Humphreys, CA - 4/13/08 9 Years, 4 Months ago  
Access from Reno, NV:
US 395 south
CA 168 west
Buttermilk Road south to snow closure

I hiked/skinned up the remainder of the road, then up McGee Creek and finally over the bergschrund at the base of the northeast couloir of Mount Humphreys. I booted up the couloir finding rotten snow at the choke. I finally made my way up to the top of the couloir, dropped my skis and pack and scrambled up to the top. I returned and descended down the couloir finding wind-affected powder at the top, rotten facets and solid ice at the choke, more wind-affected powder below the choke and corn on the glacier and down McGee Creek. I measured the slope angle in the couloir at 49 degrees.
Elevation: 6110
Distance: 12 miles
Time: 8 h

Mount Humphreys and my route

Mount Locke and its Wahoo Gullies

Mount Humphreys and its twin couloirs

Mount Humphreys, the northeast couloir, bergschrund and glacier. My tracks are visible on the glacier.


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Last Edit: 2008/04/14 16:52 By Brian Kalet.
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arunmahajan (User)
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Re:Mount Humphreys, CA - 4/13/08 9 Years, 3 Months ago  
Hello Brian,

That is a wonderful report! Congratulations.

A couple of us from the Bay Area are planning on climbing the couloir on Humphreys and this gave us a lot of good beta. We want to do it on the coming weekend, so I have a few more questions and would appreciate getting any advice that you may have.
1. We have a Subaru. How far up can we get to with that?
2. From where we park the car, what would be the best place to camp? McGee Lake? If so, how far would that be?
3. Will we need ice tools/pickets/screws for the couloir?
4. Do we descend the same way? If so, do we rap down or down-climb the couloir?
5. I have done Humphreys twice from the Paiute Pass (98 and 02) and we did it as two pitches or one long pitch of 4th or easy-5th. I am assuming that the couloir places us at about the same place on the crest, right?

Again, great job on the couloir and I would appreciate getting any more info!

I will read this forum or if you would, please email me at the address below.

Best regards,

Arun Mahajan
email: arunDOTmahajanATattDOTnet
(replace the DOT and the AT appropriately)
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